Saturday, November 22, 2008

$4 to my name...

If you all visit, you'll all walk on unpaved pothole filled dirt paths and by all of these houses that are made of concrete with tin roofs, some homes with thatched roofs and even some adobe huts. Most these people can't afford to buy these homes so they go on leases. Most of the people never finished school, so really make what their businesses bring in, and generally, it's not a lot. So, you'll also see small crops of corn being grown right outside of their homes. Shoot, even I have a crop of something or another growing on the side of my house, though it's not mine and I have no clue who it belongs to.

Property rights here are really non existent, so you have to make sure EVERYONE around you know what's yours and what's not. In fact, you'll see chicken and goats running around being all free range (for all you P.E.T.A. members) competing for whatever food they find. With malnutrition being a problem, you'd think that you could just pick up a chicken and take it home.

Oh no my friends.

The owners know what chicken is theirs. Quite literally, the neighbors can look at a chicken out of dozens and say that it's not theirs, or even tell you who that chicken belongs to. I remember trying to kick a goat away from my meal that I put on the ground and the rice lady said that it was some dude's goat that lives across the street and that he'd get mad. I was like... really? he'd know if I kicked his goat? How well do Togolese know their animals anyway?? Apparently way too well. Anyway, the point is not to kick goats and chicken no matter how tempted you are to see feathers fly, because someone will find out, and tell on you, and they'll sic a sorcerer on your butt to place a spell on you...well maybe not a spell, but I digress. The point that I'm trying to make is that they're poor. Dirt poor in fact. So poor that they go to the measure of memorizing their flippin' live stock's face. The richest person in my village isn't me, because I'm flat broke (end of pay period anywhere in the world means being broke, especially for a volunteer). It's the government workers and his cronies that drive around in cars, have blackberry's and fancy suits paid for off the backs of the average villager. It's the military that walk around town with guns, as if they accomplished something more than extort the villagers by forcing a bribe system.

Anyway, in lieu of me finding out and being outraged at the corruption, coupled with having $4 to my name, I decided that I wanted to see if I could really live off of less than a $1 a day for a week. Well, more like forced, but I'd like to think it was a choice. The days still consisted of my regular activities of going to these places and talking with people about everything, and eventually getting nothing done. These seemingly pointless activities, however, made me walk around 10k a day. I started with the intent of not even using my fridge, and realllly going for the authentic feel. " HA. Stupid Mike," you would say, and you would be right. After the first day, I pretty much gave up on the prospect of adhering to a "no-cold-drinks" policy. Besides that, I really did live in poverty (besides the 6 rooms and stuff. I mean, can walls feed you? NO. So my mansion doesn't count either).

My diet consisted of rice.... a lot of rice. In fact, rice three times a day. If you're thinking that I should be used to that...i can't even get offended, because it's true. BUT, the difference was the protein. Most Africans can barely afford to eat meat, so I too deprived myself of the meat. This meant rice, with beans, spaghetti, gari(dried and pounded yam powder) and oily sauce. This was for about a small cereal bowl's amount for 100 F, which is about 21 cents. So that meant that I ate everyday for 60 cents a day for almost exactly a week. I think I lost around 3 lbs this week. I still had to walk that lousy 10 k a day and felt like dying every time, and i couldn't blame me being out of shape on it either. When I got home, I wasn't even able to function. Cold water with crystal light, and sleep kept me sane.

Mind you that most Togolese go through the same thing, BUT they not only walk the 10k but also have to work the Field for food, and they don't get cold crystal light lemonade. They eat a corn paste that has less nutritional value than the rice that I ate. They amaze me in every aspect of their physiological ability to survive. No wonder they sleep for 2 hours at noon.

Anyway, when you hear that people have to earn more than a $1.50 a day, they're absolutely right. I just was forced to experience that this week because of my brokeness. It stunk. Like really stunk. I saw meat and I salivated. I consider myself incredible lucky to be an American who has the option of going back to a country where I have the possibility of pulling myself from poverty. These people really don't. As a Togolese friend of mine put it. " You chose to be poor. We were born and will stay poor."

I hope that even in the midst of the economic crisis, you can still appreciate the endless opportunities and possibilities we have and don't have to live off less than a dollar a day. Also, appreciate that we all don't have to memorize the faces of goats, and that we don't have chicken running around that are tempting to punt. Take my word for it.

God bless the United States of America.

Next Post: Togolese Public Transportation

2 comments:

Jessi said...

Wow Mike! What an experience you're having! I hear ya on being broke...I'm paid in dollars, living on the euro - thank goodness the exchange rate is getting better! What kind of work are you doing?

Max said...

Hey Yo! Sounds like a tough time. Hang in there as the stories you can tell will be a lifetime's worth before you even leave!

As a thought, the guy who started "Tony's" frozen pizza company is 90-ish and was talking about the current economic condition. To paraphrase heavily, he mentioned how terrible it is to hear politicians and news reporters talking about the current economic condition being like the depression. He was quite irritated by this and said that we should never EVER make that comparison as it does dishonor to the families who went through the Great Depression. "Depression" then = not knowing how to put a dish of rice on the table for the family to eat for dinner (sound familiar). "Depression" now = "We couldn't afford to buy each of our kids the 160 Gig iPod because of the economy, so we had to get them an iPod Nano instead."

Hoping things get better and hang in there.